Chapter VI: Manufacturing Procedure
There is no single source of ideas for the corset and brassiere designer. The inspiration for a new design might be a new fiber, a new fabric, or a new silhouette vogue. The gleam in the designer's eye might be based on the sudden realization of a definite consumer need. The "need" for a garment may result from fashion trends or from the consumer's desire to feel more comfortable. Half-sized corselets were introduced because designers knew that a short woman would look taller in an all-in-one garment. Bras for the junior figure, incorporating more elastic in the lower band, were developed because designers knew that the junior figure tends to have a large, muscular rib cage. The addition of elastic adds comfort for the wearer.
A new fiber like spandex might suggest to the designer that a garment incorporating the fiber should be made. (In the case of spandex, its discovery allowed for the design of lighter garments with greater strength and more support for the more mature figure type.) Parisian and American dress designers might create more clothes with higher waistlines, bringing about design changes in the corset line.
The development of a new garment follows a standard set of procedures. The designer, working with fabric experts, creates a new design. She and her staff make test patterns which are assembled by specially trained sample makers. These test garments are tried on live models and refitted-sometimes many times.
A sample maker is a specialist who works with the designer in assembling the first test garments and perfecting the final prototype before it is given, in sections, to the pattern maker.
There is quite a difference between a fitting model and a show model. The fitting model is almost an assistant designer and works very closely with the designing staff. Many of these models go on to become designers. When she test-wears a brassiere or a girdle, she is able to report on its specific qualities and suggest any changes necessary for comfort, size or strength. The show model simply models the garment for buyers, the press or for photographers. It is not part of her work to evaluate the item.
Garments and fabrics are tested for their strength, washability and wearing quality. A manufacturer may wash one garment a thousand times by hand in gentle soap, wash another garment of the same style a thousand times in a machine with gentle soap, and wash a third copy of the garment a thousand times in a machine with detergent. The three garments are then examined and comparisons are made of the effect of washing method and cleaning agent used on the lifetime of the garment. Some manufacturers will stretch a piece of fabric by machine for three or four days to check its "snap back" or resistance to permanent deformation under heavy usage. A manufacturer might have difficulty in matching finding color with fabric color because each fabric dyes or washes in a different way. So both must be tested together before they are assembled into one garment.
The final patterns are then cut from a heavy plastic board (at one time brass patterns were used), sample lines are made, and a first but small cutting order is placed to take care of sales-men's samples, modeling and advertising. The new garments are then shown to buyers. Only when the garment is accepted by the stores are orders placed for quantities of fabrics, findings, labels, boxes, etc.
The ply or number of layers of fabric used in a garment is often determined by the selling price. As in ready-to-wear, the number of plies is less in the more expensive garments-the cutting more exact. Fabric is placed on cutting boards, patterns are held on the fabric by large weights, and the fabric is cut with electric cutters in the hands of skilled men. The pieces are assembled and sent through the sewing and finishing operation where a single operator will usually perform each operation-like seam joining-and then pass the garment on for straps, boning, garters and finishing. The finished garment goes through a last inspection, a light pressing, and then to the boxing department where it is packed and shipped to the retailer. Merchandise is usually packaged according to quality. A $3 panty girdle might be shipped three-to-a-box; a $16 panty girdle, one-to-a-box.
In the meantime, the publicity director, the advertising staff and the sales managers are all busy working as a team to see that the new style is promoted and marketed properly.
Continue to Fitting
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Last updated January 30, 1998