Chapter VIII: How To Measure Yourself For Girdles
Well-made girdles that fit, control, and hold their shape as well as yours are in eight (length of the garment ) sections. The large panels in front and back, and narrower panels over each hip should be of fabric. A stretch panel on either side of the fabric hip panel is adequate for maximum flexibility in the largest size. Girdles are available in six lengths from 14-inch through 19-inch; from 26 waist through 42 waist. Worn daily this well constructed garment will last approximately one year with proper laundry care. The therapy derived from such a girdle is inestimable. Repairs should not he neglected.
The degree of figure control depends on the fabrics and stretch sections.
- A girdle of cotton/rayon brocade, front and back cotton lined and well boned with side sections of hand-loomed elastic offers maximum control.
- A girdle of nylon taffeta, satin or layers of marquisite with double layers of nylon elastic power net side sections controls to a lesser degree.
- A girdle of lightweight nylon-cotton backed fabric with side sections of lycra (reinforced in mid-section ) is the lightest and most flexible.
All these girdles offer the same rejuvenation or help to maintain good posture and figure lines.
It is essential that the well constructed girdle be the correct length and measurements to suit the individual need.
Girdles No. 1 and No. 2 must be fitted to the accurate waist and thigh/derriere measurements.
Girdle No. 3 should be taken one size smaller (lycra doesn't have the tension of rubber).
The correct length of girdles does not vary because of the change of materials, as the construction is the same.
The girdles described are waist sized every inch, starting with 26, 27, 28, 29, etc., and are always made with a left side zipper. The opening in a girdle can be changed to elsewhere, without altering the fit.
It is the thigh-derriere (low hip) measure which must be accurate to allow for normal body circulation, in order for the girdle to be comfortable. The weight of the body is borne by this area when sitting. Girdles are marked by waist measure, but it's just as important to check your low hip-snugly (standing with feet together) as it is to check the garments' hip measure- see instructions. Girdles do not allow for making larger via their seams; so it is important to take the size which fits where you are "out of proportion" and have the garment taken in to fit the smaller measurement. For example: in a 16 inch girdle, size 28 (waist) your hip is 37-38, then take a size 30 and have an inch taken in at each side of the garment at the top; tapering off the dart to about 6" from the bottom). The same method works in reverse, if the waist is too large in proportion to the low hip measure.
The fitted over-the-waist girdle follows the natural body contour. This garment at the top must be at least 2 inches below the line under the breasts. Once the proper length of the overall garment is established correctly, it rarely changes. It isn't the body structure that changes, only, the girth. Neither the woman's height, nor length of legs has any bearing on the correct girdle length. The hip-heavy woman must wear a longer girdle; the stomach-heavy woman a shorter girdle, and for the average-proportioned, the girdle that ends just under the buttocks.
Correct length of girdle and correct measurements achieved, the next step is to sit with your back up against a straight-backed chair, front garters and side garters fastened taut, back garters fastened loosely, on the tips of hose.
1. Knees together, the line should be smooth and tapered from the girdle's bottom to the knees.
2. Front and side bones (spiral, soft or hard steel) must clear the lap, but not by more than an inch.
The high waist girdle must always be accompanied by either a 3/4 or longline bra. In the bra style that does not require being fastened to the girdle with grips it should be tested. With the girdle and bra on, stand sideways in front of the mirror and bend forward. If the bottom back of the bra does not jump the top of the girdle, then the 3/4 length bra, tried on first is correct, otherwise take the longline bra. The all-fabric bras come with 4 grips for which loops or eyelets are sewn on the girdle to fasten the grips into. Sew loops for grips on the fabric of the girdle not on the stretch, even if the grips on the bra have to be moved.
Outfitted in this set of foundations, your posture will be improved, if not perfect. You will no longer have a midriff roll, or be a tugger of your girdle and bra.
Measurements do change with the years even without weight change, because body weight shifts. Girdles can be altered, to the correct size. If they are alternated daily, and aired, they last longer. I have never stocked or recommended any girdles which have at either top or bottom of its body, a one, two or three inch width elastic band added on. I consider it poor construction and not conducive to the comfort for normal circulation of a woman of any age.
WARNING-IT IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE TO WEAR HOSE "LONG ENOUGH" with an over-the-waist girdle. Check the following when seated:
1. Hose too short at the top, after garters are properly fastened will have an excessive pull on the girdle and make for runs.
2. Excess flesh bulge in front between the top of the hose and bottom of the girdle will effect circulation by acting like a round tight garter.
LAUNDRY CARE (No detergents)
Never put any foundation in a washing machine. Presoak them in tepid soapy water for 15 minutes, scrub with a hand brush, rinse in clean water to prolong their wear and comfort.
Be sure the zipper is closed when washing. After rinsing open the zipper for quicker drying. Before garments are completely dry (damp) stretch lengthwise every seam and wherever there are bones encased. This operation brings bras and girdles back to their original length.
Allow to dry naturally (away from sun or heater).
Always step into when putting on, and push down when taking off, a fitted boned girdle. Don't pull a girdle on over the head, or take off by turning the top down. Wash bras every three wearings, girdles every three weeks. All stretch girdles, rinse every ten days to two weeks.
ALL STRETCH-GIRDLES AND PANTIES
As a custom-corsetiere, I do not recommend either of these garments for everyday wear, except for the very young who are well proportioned. In the thigh/derriere area, the size must be very accurate in the panty model. Aside from smoothing the derriere, and providing garters; neither version offers any support in the waistline style. Regardless of size, women over 30 who wear the waistline panty or girdle style will develop a mid-riff roll. Of course on the occasion of active sports indulgences, these types are suitable, and permissible, with a short bra.
Women have tried hiding the midriff bulge with longline bras. It will not work. The roll becomes larger, and the bottom of the bra is kicked up each time the wearer sits. The waist style makes a bulge, the high-waist style eliminates it.
Most manufacturers allow a 10 inch hip spread over the waist size, unless otherwise specified. There is more tension and wear in girdles made of elastic, than those made of lycra. The difference between the sizes (S, Med, Lg) is usually two inches. The best fitting are those made with the "split" hip of lastex stretching in be- low the bottom of the girdle or panty leg, at the inside or out- side of the thigh.
The over-the waist version in all stretch in either panty or girdle, should have a side zipper. It does eliminate the midriff bulge, offer a little back support, and keep or improve posture. This style should be worn with a 3/4 or longline bra.
For your comfort and health's sake buy the panty girdle with a split crotch of fabric, or if the crotch is of lycra or rubber it should have a removable shield of fabric inside.
The most comfortable and best wearing in any of the four styles mentioned are those in which all the panels are cut in one piece, the length of the garment.
CORSELETTES WITH STRAPS (THE ALL-IN-ONE GARMENT)
This is another style foundation I do not recommend as an everyday garment for the adult woman. There is an all soft stretch model, no bones or zipper (of lycra) that is easily pulled on the body. The other model, with some stretch at the sides, and rigid front and back panels of a cotton brocade or nylon; well boned, and zipped front or side. For a particular dress, there is not too much harm done to wear either of the garments described, on occasion.
No matter how well this type of all-in-one is fitted to the individual by an expert, it does have its limitations. The pull on the shoulders every time the woman sits, is not conducive to keeping good posture. The full breasted is unable to get the maximum uplift for support. Women in the menopause years (regardless of size) will avoid developing a humped back, protruding stomach, and grooved shoulders by wearing the over- the-waist girdle and longline bra.
Considering how differently the upper and lower halves of the body function, it is easier to get a maximum of fit and comfort from two separate garments. Bras are laundered every few wearings, girdles every few weeks. Whatever physical problem a woman may have, no physician has ever ordered an all-in-one. For therapy, all-in-ones have value. For rejuvenating a figure they offer a minimum.
Generally all-in-ones come in two skirt lengths, 14" and 16"; in B, C, D cup and marked according to bust size. It is important to check the low hip measure of the garment to be sure it will fit you. As in girdles this area must be fit correctly for your comfort, so use the table of measurements for girdles and bras when selecting a corselette.
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Chapter IX: Corsetiere In Training
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Last updated May 29, 1997