Chapter IX: Corsetiere In Training
I feel the woman over 30 with a "fashion flair" and a working knowledge of dressmaking and fitting, is best suited for this profession. There is an additional ingredient needed in this field between fitter and customer, as between doctor and patient; en rapport. It doesn't matter if the customer is 15 or 65, she must get that feeling on contact, that you want to help her.
Whatever her figure, problem or not, YOU have seen many and feel certain you are qualified to make improvement in any or all of the areas of beauty, comfort and health. You must always be well fitted and well groomed, because a new customer's eyes and mind are focused on your figure. It is advisable to become familiar (through medical books in the library) with the various female forms and conditions that develop with age, so that a nude body with only underpants on is as acceptable to you as a fully clothed woman.
Once in the fitting room, your relaxed manner and air of "know-how" is sensed by the new customer who will let you bring her what you as a corsetiere feels she needs. Some are more difficult to "win" over than others, and the woman may still prefer what she has worn in kind for years. By all means bring it on and fit her with the best; pointing out the advantages of your choice over hers. The changing body needs changing of type.
This is called constructive criticism; and since every woman knows her figure problem she will more often than not buy your choice, because the change is so immediately obvious. For example: If a woman is healthy, she is always interested in her best appearance. I have taken women of past 80 years out of corselettes and put them in girdles and bras for the first time in their lives. They are not only grateful, but are your biggest booster to all their friends and families.
Tell your customer that you keep a record of her purchases on file including alterations made). Orders can be refilled by mail. If you have your own shop, send notices when you go on vacation so the customer can take an inventory for replacements.
The woman who has been properly fitted develops a sense of "fit feel," and is able, when ordering by mail, to pin-point changes and give new measurements. The weight gain or loss is approximately one inch for each five to ten pounds. However, that may not be over all of the body, so it's best to use the tape measure. It is good to render repair and renovating services.
The types of foundations I have recommended are those suitable for making larger or smaller. Construction is the secret of a good foundations success for rejuvenating the figure in the hands of an expert fitter. It is most important to fit the woman according to the age group she belongs in. There are exceptions. I have had college girls whose breasts and figures were like those women approaching middle age. These young ladies must of course be fitted then as mature women with an over-the-waist girdle and a longline bra to give them the youthful look and feel that is rightfully theirs.
Once you have established the age group of your customer, von must be able to recognize at a glance whether her figure is "about average," "hip heavy, or "bosom heavy." Always concentrate on perfecting the problem, severe or not. The good features of a figure will fall into line and become the most predominant. Take into account the wearers foundation. It is best for the first try to select a garment of materials resembling her own. If you feel she needs a firmer garment, allow her to try it also. It's simpler to step up gradually.
Your most delicate and difficult problem is with the woman who has out-sized breasts in relation to her body size.
It is customary to always start fitting with the girdle first. After establishing correct waist down length, and over the waist height, put on the bra (3/4 or longline ) in correct body and cup size.
Seat the customer so that you are able to observe in this changed position whether or not the bosom has moved up too much. If she is full busted or has a short midriff it is safer to fit the girdle an inch shorter, over the waist, than an inch higher.
There are frequent changes in brassiere styling that are coordinated to current fashion trends. It is not always possible to stick to the standard of what your customer may wear in her daily bra. The same woman may wear a 34B in a regular bandeau, a 32C in a low back strapless longline aud a 34C in a longline plunge-front scooped back with wide set straps. They could all be from the same manufacturer, or from different sources. The trend in extremes is short-lived. For most people the conventional bra for daily wear, and a well fitted strapless (with removable straps) for occasions, are the most dependable.
It is safe to say that 75 percent of women of all ages wear the wrong kind, and wrong size in bras and girdles. Fitting each customer saves wear and tear on you also. You are assured of less returns and repeat orders. Frequently the customer wishes to try on the next larger size than you measured her for. If it's an undecided matter after she has sat in the garment awhile, encourage her to take the larger one. Tape measures aren't people; and you as a fitter cannot know every individual's temperament, or her degree of sensitivity. It is simple enough to take the girdle or corselette in at a later date. This same situation holds true during the warmer months. Most bodies distend during summer, so measure "easy" and offer lighter garments of the same construction. Many women wear the same type garment the year around. I always observe the hard and fast rule of showing the over-the-waist girdle with either the 3/4 length or longline brassiere. It is rare when a woman can wear comfortably the high girdle with a bandeau (short bra). She would have to be very tall and/or very thin. Most advertisements show women in high-waist girdles and short bras. It is purely for picture purpose, and not at all functional or comfortable on live women. I never use such sketches or photographs in my advertisements because it is misleading.
Names or expensive elastics and fabrics do not compensate for proper fit. Foundations, like shoes, reflect their accurate fit and comfort in a woman's face. They do not fit, if when after being attired a woman is frequently tugging at the bottom of her girdle, unfurling the top of it or adjusting her brassiere strap every time she changes position.
You should make your customers aware that it isn't costly to keep a good figure. It is healthy to maintain good posture by wearing well-fitted foundations every day. A foundation style should coordinate with outer wear. It's not customary to wear sheer hose with ski boots; nor a strapless bra with a tailored suit or sweater.
Black girdles and bras are as washable as whites should be worn under dark cleanable type clothes. The dark dyes rub off on light foundations and cannot be washed out. I frequently give a demonstration to a new customer how easy it is to bend with a girdle (not over it) proving that the over the waist girdle not the longline bra eliminates midriff bulge. The combination of the high waist girdle with the overlapping bra produces fluid unbroken lines with a maximum of comfort, and support.
Try to get the practical experience by working on every female in your family of the three age groups; unless you are fortunate enough to be working with a real corsetiere whom you can observe and who will supervise your fittings. How long does it take to become an expert fitter? I'd say at least as long as it takes to become an excellent beautician.
P.S. I did not go into the "old timer," the front or back lace-up type corset; because it is rarely called for today. In my opinion they are too rigid for Today's Woman," yet they are much healthier than the all stretch and panty models. They are however available in 12-17 inch skirt lengths; and from 6-10 inch hip difference over the waist size. Whatever the woman's waist measure, the garment must be marked 3 inches smaller plus the hip need: narrow, average or full. In addition to the lacing; these corsets have either side hook aud eye, side zipper, or front clasp closure. After the garment is on and fits correctly the laces should be about three inches apart. Set the customer in a straight backed chair to make certain that all bones clear the lap by one inch.
BEAUTIFUL FIGURES ARE NOT BORN, THEY ARE CREATED BY GOOD FITTING.
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Appendix: Girdles Used Therapeutically
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Last updated May 29, 1997